Adventure to the Red Centre, part 3

North to Arkaroola

There's no such thing as a lie-in on this trip because of the distances involved.  Up at dawn yet again to reach Arkaroola.  En route was the Brachina Gorge .  Real Outback country, yet unlike anything we had encountered so far.  Following a (mainly) dry creek at the bottom of the gorge, it was jumping (pun absolutely intended) with wildlife.

Once your eyes had dialled in, there were yellow-footed rock wallabies everywhere as the following photos show.

Can you see them in the crack?

How about now?

Posing on a rock - thanks mate!

The bank behind the tree is silt to a depth of over 3 metres from a flash flood.

Driving along an old creek bed

Not many people out this way

Lunch was due at Parachilna, first surveyed in the 1860's.  A tiny population in the area but a centre for various gatherings as the Prairie Hotel has developed an excellent reputation for fine dining, together with a micro-brewery. 

The Prairie Hotel, Parachilna

Micro-brewery inside the hotel

Seating for lunch with Aboriginal art gracing the walls

The hotel specialises in local foods and emu, kangaroo, camel, goat cheese and the like were all on the menu and utterly delicious, as was the beer.

Platters of local produce

Opposite the hotel was a sculpture garden with some interesting items.  My particular favourite was what looked like random bits of sheet metal on poles.  When you lined them up at a particular vantage point, they took on the shape of a train.

Cool garden art

Early life from the area up to 550 million years ago

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary covers over 600,000 sq km and is also a Dark Skies area.  Because of clear skies and a massive variation in rock types and ages, it's also a mecca for science study.  There are even radioactive geothermal springs at the northern end of the property. Temperatures are typical desert, hot during the day but cold after sundown.  The wallabies came in from the surrounding bush for wilderness staff to feed (not enough for dependence).

Our evening meal was a little chaotic initially as around 150 adventure bike riders from all round Australia had converged on Arkaroola and wanted feeding.  Sorted pretty quickly.  Most were grizzled greybeards of "a certain age" and great to chat with.

Russian Ural sidecar unit

These guys had more modern BMW's

Another early start the next day for a ridgetop drive in an open Toyota Landcruiser over some challenging tracks and hostile conditions.  Low range gearbox selection, low gear was the order of the day. It was difficult to stay in place and we all ended up getting very friendly with the people seated next to us at one time or another!

Built for the job - the Landcruiser

Wild country

   

Grass Trees on a ridge

Quite a view from this tea and cake stop - Siller's Lookout

Aussie guide - amazing presentation skills as were they all

Rock which was largely iron

Unknown rock but way cool! C3PO's head perhaps?

The end of the ridgetop tour

It's quite unfair to single out one part of this tour as the highlight as it is so beautifully curated with such variety. However, if someone was to ask what part we would do again, it would almost certainly be Arkaroola.  It fitted in with my interests, was superbly run and the overwhelming scenery evoked quite an emotional response.  Pretty much the same for Jennie too.

Next post - Lake Eyre and Birdsville area.

Adventure to the Red Centre, part 2

Up to Wilpena Pound

There were 11 of us on the trip, all east coast Aussies bar us.  From the get go, it was apparent that we were all going to get along with plenty of irreverent humour shown.  Our driver/guide from APT, Kym, was out of the same mould too.  Transport to the various locations was via an articulated Scania 4WD truck with very comfortable seats for long hauls over some indifferent roads and tracks, plus a good comms system and internal window for Kym to chat with us.

The mighty Scania

Working our way north from Adelaide, the first leg up through the Clare Valley was what you might call pastoral, plus large areas of fruit and vegetables.  The big difference compared with similar places in the rest of the world is the steep drop-off in the number of people you see on the roads outside the main centres.  It can be a lonely place if you run into trouble.  Some of the small population areas are in steep decline for multiple reasons, whilst others are reinventing themselves.   A good example is Watervale, where we stopped for lunch.  Origination was in the mid 1800's and it has more recently become an epicurean centre for good wine and excellent locally-grown food, centred around the beautifully restored hotel.

Here are some photos.

The Watervale Hotel

Massive old cast urn outside the hotel - presumably a high copper content

Magnificent kitchen

Reception area with Aboriginal art

One of the restored dining areas

After a magnificent lunch, it was time to head further north.  By the time we reached Orroroo, about 280 km north of Adelaide, the landscape change was really noticeable, being dustier, drier and a fair way from anywhere.  Big main street, a good number of empty shops and a declining area population of around 500 at present.  

Orroroo main street

Sign outside the butchery

Seeing the southern Flinders Range late afternoon on the horizon and then arriving at Wilpena Pound was a really exciting prospect as we were due to see it from the air early the following morning by light plane.  We didn't really know what to expect but it seemed to be on the bucket list of everyone we spoke to.  Accommodation and food was excellent, as were all the places so far.

Wilpena Pound is a natural amphitheatre of mountains over 400 km north of Adelaide and what a spectacular place it is! We waited for the small high wing Cessna to turn up at the nearby bush airstrip and I noticed a couple of kangaroos watching us, rather hoping that they weren't going to cause trouble during take-off or landing! The pilot looked like he was on work experience from school but doesn't everyone these days?  Mountain pilots are normally highly skilled to cope with the climatic conditions and this young fella was as smooth as silk.

Don't look now but we're being watched....

Here comes our ride

Wilpena Pound from the air

Traversing the rim of the Pound

Solar power installation

Outside the Pound, showing dried-up watercourses

After the breathtakingly beautiful flight, we visited a nearby historic station and homestead from the 1850's.  Conditions for early settlers were pretty challenging to say the least.  The next photo shows a eucalyptus tree which is known to be at least 500 years old.

The Wida River Red Gum, a protected tree of significance.  Wilpena Pound in the background

Eucalyptus branch mottling

One of the original living quarters on the station

Later in the day, Jennie and I walked for a while inside Wilpena Pound and saw the effects of nature at work in this area.  It's hard to assess the scale in the following photo but the tangle of uprooted eucalyptus trees in the creek bed is between 5- 10 metres tall. It was due to a flash flood in 1989.  Termites and weather are gradually returning the trees to the land.

The result of flash flooding in 1989

The impact of weather on the erosion of Wilpena Pound and the nearby ranges is shown in the following photo.  The rock is about 2 metres long and 3/4 metre deep.  It's been recently split in half most likely due to water ingress into small cracks, followed by the typically cold nights and hot days of the desert climate causing expansion and contraction.

 

The power of nature

Next morning required an early start for the long haul up to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary.  In a trip already laden with superlatives, Arkaroola certainly wasn't going to disappoint!

Adventure to the Red Centre, part1

Sealed roads, dirt tracks and light aircraft flights - that's what you call variety!

We've spent a lot of time in Australia on holidays and visiting family over the years.  When Jennie spotted a limited numbers tour from Adelaide in South Australia by 4WD truck up to Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the Red Centre, we jumped at it as we'd never been significantly inland before.  Winter is a great time to do it as cold night and early morning temperatures are followed by warm days, but not up to the 50 C of summer!   The plan was to spend a few days exploring Adelaide and the wine regions of Adelaide Hills and the Barossa Valley , then do the tour and finish in Melbourne to catch up with our daughter and our son in law.

Adelaide Region

Flying directly from Auckland to Adelaide was about 5 hours, being picked up in an upmarket Mercedes and being delivered to the Playford Hotel (How the other half live!)

Mrs J in retro heaven at the Playford

The hotel was only a short walk from the Torrens river and the Adelaide Oval cricket ground.  It's a city of 1.3 million but seems largely free of congestion thanks to good infrastructure such as free trams in the central part of the city - we loved it.

Torrens River and the Oval Cricket ground

The city was a good mix of old and new buildings, the beautifully restored Adelaide Arcade being a great example both inside and out.

Adelaide Arcade exterior

Arcade interior with boutique shops

The railway station was another example of excellent restoration.

Railway station interior

Food was also excellent and similar in price to NZ.  We found a superb Mexican restaurant down a side alley which got great reviews and we can see why!  I had my first bowl of traditional Pozole soup made with pork, chillies and hominy, with various herbs - absolute heaven and completely filling.

Heaven in a bowl

However, it was wine-tasting from one of the world's great regions that we were really interested in and a fair amount of sampling went on.  Most were high quality but nothing absolutely stood out until we stopped off at Chateau Yaldara.

Can't wait to get inside!

Seriously impressive

Decisions, decisions.....

There were some pretty nice wines but at the end of the tasting session, the big guns were rolled out in the shape of a limited release 2017 Grenache - smart marketing!  Our eyes just about popped out, it was that good. I'm not going to disclose the normal selling price or the circumstances of our discount but 6 bottles were purchased as a present from Jennie for my birthday in October.  They'll be shared with good friends on special occasions.  They arrived in NZ well before we returned with no hassles.  I might mention that their most expensive item was a vintage port at A$600 a bottle.  Good job that Jennie doesn't like port!

Nectar of the gods

During our Barossa trip, we also saw a pub/microbrewery with a great name.  This is it: 

What a great name for a pub!

We also visited the village of Hahndorf which is Australia's oldest German settlement.  Whilst it was nice to see the old buildings, much of it was set up to sell unexciting wares to tourists.  Not unexpected I suppose but not done with the low key touch of Arrowtown in NZ's south island.

A bit of a theme here......

That concludes our exploration of the Adelaide region and the next post sees us on the first part of our 4WD trip towards the Red Centre.

Another milestone

A bit of a departure from cars and bikes this time round but the timing is right for a bit of reflection on something special and more than a bit sentimental.

Later this month, Jennie and I will celebrate being married for 52 years.  They say that time flies when you're having fun and that's the absolute truth of it. Mercifully, she doesn't read this blog or she'd think I've gone soft in the head but over all that time, I couldn't have wished for more support than she's given to all my peccadilloes and hobbies.  I'd like to think it's been reciprocated too and I'm just as crazy about her now as when we got married, even if I receive a well-earned bollocking from time to time for guy-type transgressions.  She once said that it was like living with a 5 year old for something I'd done.  Clearly demonstrated her past profession as a teacher!

When I first mentioned to my closest mates that I really fancied her, they reckoned that I didn't have a chance as she was far too classy for the likes of me.  Only your closest friends can get away with saying that!  I must admit that I was almost painfully shy at that time and nervous about asking her out. Pretty surprised when she said yes, although one of her close friends was in on the matchmaking too.  It could have turned to custard at that stage as my mates actually told her what they said to me.  However, she showed true class by ignoring them, although she does still enjoy winding me up about it if I need pulling into line.  When the time came later on, I botched THE PROPOSAL by getting hopelessly tongue-tied and she made me get down on one knee and do it properly, sigh.  We married less than 12 months after first going out which was a complete whirlwind.  Photo taken on our honeymoon.  Why such a beautiful and smart woman chose to spend her life with me remains a mystery.

Just after our wedding, 1972

Moving from the UK to NZ in 1975 was the start of our big adventure together and as we both enjoyed our introduction to sailing in the UK, we bought a yacht to race at the local NZ yacht club.  On reflection, partners sailing together isn't necessarily a smart move as a hastily shouted command by the skipper can be taken badly (and often was!).  Fortunately, this was solved by Jennie expecting our first child and stopping sailing.  A move to single-handed yachts ensued and a lot of weekends were spent trailing a growing family round to various regattas in scenic locations around the country. Little wonder that our kids have always enjoyed the water!

Our Frostply class yacht - 1976

Building a professional career and raising a family became the priorities but in the late 80's, my interest in motorcycles was rekindled.  Jennie already knew of my past biking passion so I got the green light, although there was a quid pro quo in her buying a piano which cost twice as much as the bike!  

Circa 1990 - big hair and big glasses very much in fashion!

As the kids grew older, Jennie and I did more 2-up trips on the bikes.  She was the best pillion ever - you wouldn't even know that she was there.  However, there was one infamous occasion where we rode to some street races with friends and their wives.  On the way home, my mates and I might have been travelling a little too fast for the comfort of our pillions.  We stopped for refreshments at a country cafe and received a massive telling-off from our wives.  This was done in front of other riders sitting on the outdoor deck which received thunderous applause and cheers.  It would have been fatal to smile so we just shuffled our feet and took the very public rebuke.

Jennie and the Blackbird - 2003

The early 2000's saw the last of our kids off to university and Jennie traded being a pillion for her first 2 seat sports car.  We toured the south island for a month in her first one and had an absolute ball in near-perfect weather with the top down for most of the road trip.  It also allowed me to buy bikes which were better suited for the solo rider!

Mk1 MX5 at Warbirds HQ, Wanaka

Jennie became quite a petrolhead and for her 60th birthday, the first MX5 was replaced by importing a special edition MX5 NB model which had been worked on by Mazdaspeed in Japan.  Only 3000 of them were made for worldwide sales in the metallic merlot colour and other enhancements.

Mazdaspeed - prepped MX5, Warbirds HQ, Ardmore, Auckland

On the aforementioned south island trip, we also took a trip into the foothills of the Remarkables mountain range on 2 stroke quad bikes.  On a tricky downhill section strewn with rocks, Jennie left me for dead and has been smug about it ever since.  I still maintain that she wasn't aware of the risks but she isn't having any of it!

Hooning on 2 stroke quad bikes - Queenstown NZ, 2001

Since my retirement from motorcycling, owning our classic MGB GT car and a boat for sea fishing have both helped to fill the gap left from not riding.  Both of these pursuits were Jennie's suggestions so she really is one in a million.  A lot of her spare time is spent as Chair of the local museum and I lend my support as being one of her army of volunteer maintenance people - helping out cuts both ways!

A spot of winter fishing with So-Fish-Ticated

Made the same year we got married - 1972

Getting older doesn't mean sitting around, it means new experiences and never saying "If only....".  Being able to do it with my best mate is one heck of a bonus.  Overseas travel together has been somewhat curtailed since Covid but that will shortly be rectified with an Outback adventure in Australia, followed shortly after by my second knee replacement.  Hopefully after that, we can settle back into a normal, but busy life with our extended family.  I'm a lucky guy.