Kiwis, Curries, and Coconut Palms: NZ to Sri Lanka - part 1

I'm beginning to think that the Travel Gods enjoy throwing a few curved balls at our bucket list plans, even though we seem to get through them ok in the end.  It all adds to the memories!  In 2019, we spent some time in China, arriving in Wuhan just before all hell broke loose with Covid.  This time, it's Trump and Netanyahu who have to carry the can for starting a war and stuffing our travel plans about.

Jennie has been keen to visit Sri Lanka for some time and late last year, we started planning the trip. The original intent was to travel via the middle east which we all know has been seriously disrupted. Our most excellent travel agent sprang into action and at pretty much the last minute, managed to organise business class seats via another route with another airline when very few options remained.  It was necessary to change the beginning and end dates of the trip to meet the actual dates of the limited numbers tour but that was fine with us.  However, it did lead to unintended consequences on the return leg which will be mentioned later.

Sri Lanka is roughly one quarter the area of NZ, but with a population of around 21 million compared with 5.3 million in NZ.  Sri Lanka's history spans around 2500 years and has been occupied by the Portuguese, Dutch and British before gaining independence in 1948.

The tour was with APT Travel as we'd used them previously and they have a great reputation.  There were both Australians and Kiwis on the trip to see both the cultural and natural world aspects of the country. It mainly consisted of a couple of nights in one place before moving to the next region to explore.

Colombo region

With time to kill before joining the organised tour, we hired a tuk-tuk and driver for a few hours to show us round the city.  The first few minutes were a nightmare with death or serious injury thought to be a distinct possibility due huge traffic volumes and bugger-all space between vehicles travelling at a fair velocity. I mouthed a well-known 4 letter word at Jennie during one close encounter with a large truck and it was pretty clear that she was thinking along the same lines.

The ubiquitous tuk tuk

We needn't have worried though as most local drivers have superb situational awareness and road rage appears to be non-existent. A quick toot on the horn to advise other drivers that you're there and the apparently chaotic system actually works well although it wouldn't translate successfully to the western world due to lower tolerance levels.  It didn't take long to feel completely relaxed with our driver.  Sri Lankan main roads in town and the countryside are a match for any in the major nations in terms of quality although the smaller country lanes are pretty narrow.

Typical traffic light grand prix

Our driver was a really nice guy and a 5 hour tour was negotiated for about NZ$70.  As well as seeing tourist landmarks, we also dived down little alleyways to get a better feel for the city. We also stretched our legs at various landmarks as the following photos show.

Railway station with massive platforms - where is everyone?

The Lotus Tower is apparently south Asia's tallest structure at 356 metres and gives fantastic views over the city.

Top of the Lotus Tower

The photo below was taken looking towards the port from the top of the tower.  Colombo has a good mix of pre-European, early European and modern buildings with what seems like a good conservation plan for the older buildings.  The port construction work in the rear of the photo is a Sri Lankan/Chinese joint venture of the type seen throughout Africa, Asia and the Pacific. Chinese influence is really noticeable in this part of the hemisphere.

View in one direction from the Lotus Tower

The bottom of the tower had graphics projected onto inner walls which the viewer could interact with and become part of the scene - great fun!

Jennie becoming an active part of the jungle scene

Massive banyan tree in central Colombo

I might also mention in passing that a stop was made at a manufacturing jeweller during the ride and a ring was purchased to match the sapphire and diamond bracelet which Jennie wears on appropriate bling occasions. Difficult, err..... impossible to argue against it with the number of expensive toys I've bought over the years! The price of love....

The following day, we met with Sunil, the Tour Director and other members of the tour party. A visit to the house of the late Sri Lankan architect, Geoffrey Bawa was planned, plus a walking tour of the central city, the main market and dinner at a curry house.

What a fascinating visit to the Bawa residence, located in a narrow residential lane. The style could probably be described as minimalist and the predominantly white colours were perfect for Sri Lanka temperatures and humidity. Here are a few photos.

Garage, with 1930's Rolls Royce

Passage connecting garage to main living area

Simple, elegant bedroom

Part of the main living area

Internal water feature

Owl sculpture attached to the passage wall

The afternoon walk in the central city was with a local photographer with a strong interest in preserving the architectural heritage of countries which contributed to Sri Lanka's history.  He had an encyclopedic knowledge and a great sense of humour.  I suspect that he had been a real thorn in the side of the authorities to ensure that the old buildings were properly restored and maintained.  Apparently, the Military had a major role in building restoration following civil conflict (1983-2009) and the need to give military personnel peacetime skills.  The following photos give a sense of the various styles and high quality restoration.

Chandelier stretching for several floor levels - magnificent

Lighthouse/clock tower and ornate plasterwork

The British Cargills building, circa 1903

Covered walkway, Cargill building

One building had been restored and repurposed as a technology hub for young entrepreneurs.  During restoration, many original items of furniture etc were discovered in an abandoned basement and were put to good use to decorate the rooms as per the example below. 

Restored original early gramophone

During post-civil war restoration work of the Dutch colonial period hospital which started in the 1680's, old paint was removed and when the shuttered windows were taken back to bare wood, it was discovered that they were made from solid mahogany. Well worth the effort!

Original woodwork at the Dutch Hospital

Prior to dinner, there was a visit to the main market.  It was delightfully chaotic with huge crowds mixing with traffic but again, the system, if you can call it that; seemed to work perfectly.

Products of all kinds spilling onto the road

Seething humanity

Buses bringing people to the market were highly ornamental and added to the colour and noise of the occasion.

Chaos everywhere

Magnificent Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque in the market area

After the noise and bustle of the market, it was off to dinner at a local curry house for traditional Sri Lankan cuisine. The food was delightful but almost without exception, the main courses were far too hot for western palates and coughing, sneezing and runny noses were much in evidence.  Mrs J chose spiced chicken skewers, accompanied by naan bread. When they arrived, they were suspended on what amounted to a hot charcoal mini BBQ.  I don't suppose I helped her appetite by suggesting that they looked like small rodents which had met an untimely end.  Despite this gaffe, it was a really fun evening and we all trooped back to the hotel to begin the tour proper the following day.

Mrs J's main course gently sizzling away

Outside the restaurant

Part 2 to come.......