Wheel alignment

Thursday 5 September 2024

Adventure to the Red Centre, part 6 (final)

Uluru and the Olgas

Oh no!  Rubbing sleep from eyes for a dawn departure into the Northern Territory and the Lasseter Highway to Uluru.  Actually, it wasn't as bad as expected as the light and skies at that time in the desert were absolutely magnificent.

Here comes the sun, la la.....

Amazing cloud formations

Can't miss the Northern Territory sign

A welcome from one of the locals

This part of the trip seemed to be the province of the ubiquitous Aussie road trains which could really shift and clearly, any overtakes needed to be planned well in advance because of their length.  Here's an example parked at the Erldunda Roadhouse.  

A certain skill set is required to drive one of these

It was while stopping at Erldunda for refreshments that yours truly made a complete arse of himself (a technical term).  A good coffee and an Aussie meat pie would hit the spot nicely.  Liking spicy food, I bought one of these:

Buy one of these at your peril

Yes, I saw the extreme heat warning before purchase but marketing speak has always been over-hyped and disappointing.  Biting off a large chunk and wolfing it down saw me instantly transported to a world of pain.  The big mistake was taking the first bite in the presence of some of our fellow travellers, especially Jennie who never passes up an opportunity for a bit of mickey-taking.  With eyes pouring tears, nose running like a tap and sweating profusely, I simply couldn't talk whilst those around me were close to tears of their own.  After a few minutes, I regained my voice and simply said, "Bless me" (or something of a cruder equivalent which brought even more laughter).  I've eaten some hot foods in my time but bloody hell.......  Remainder of pie quickly consigned to a rubbish bin whist I composed myself.

Comedy act over, it was time to continue to Yulara, the stopping off point for Uluru.

Salt pan on the Lasseter Highway

We soon came upon a massive tabletop rock rising from the desert but it wasn't Uluru.  Still impressive though.  Almost certain that it was Mt Conner.

Mt Conner

Arriving at the Sails in the Desert complex late afternoon, it really was an oasis in barren land and pretty impressive.  The buffet-style meal in the dining room that evening was equally impressive.  

Ghost gum tree

The plan for the morning was to travel in the dark to a viewing platform about 20 minutes drive away to see the first rays of the sun strike Uluru, then to walk round parts of Uluru itself.  Climbing it was discontinued in 2019 as a mark of cultural respect to the local Anangu indigenous people.

The outline of Uluru becoming apparent

The sun's first rays falling on Uluru

Sun striking the Olgas (Kata Tjuta), west of Uluru

Despite there being reasonable numbers of people present to witness sunrise, there wasn't a lot of talking.  Perhaps people were simply absorbing one of the world's great spectacles unfolding before them.

The next part of the day was dedicated to walking round selected parts of the base of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Our guide Kym was absolutely in his element, explaining history from an indigenous perspective with humility and an engaging manner - exceptionally well done.  The sheer scale when close up was overwhelming.  Here are a selection of photos from Uluru.

A visual explanation of the various features

The woma python woman of indigenous mythology to the right

Indigenous rock art

Arched cave - Uluru

Looking outward from cave

Amazing formations

The discontinued climbing route

It's a purely personal choice but I marginally preferred the Olgas as somewhere to explore, simply because of the sheer variety of shapes, but that's not denigrating Uluru in any shape or form.

Part of the Olgas - the Walpa Gorge area

Looking the part!

Arty shot - the Olgas

That evening saw our last meal together - a table under the stars with Uluru in the background.  To use an understatement, just a wee bit special.

Dinner under the stars at dusk with Uluru top left

Nightfall and great company

The next morning saw everyone saying goodbye departing in different directions to various parts of Australia. Trip highlights..... what can I say?  The star was the Australian Outback.  Everything you'd hoped for and more besides.  Many Australians I've spoken to over the years have travelled extensively internationally, yet have never travelled far inland or even to Western Australia north of Perth.  Why is that?  Special mention of APT and the exceptional quality of their team.  Delivering great outcomes but keeping everything low key at the same time.  Driver/Guide Kym was the best of the best - unflappable, always on top of everything and displayed great humour.  Kym was also great with his explanations of indigenous culture in the various areas. Finally, the people on tour with us.  Great fun and we all got on so well - expecting a few welcome visitors to NZ now!

Our journey to Australia ended in Melbourne to catch up with our daughter and her husband for a few days, exploring the Mornington Peninsula and surrounds - the perfect way to wind down an outstanding holiday.

En route to Melbourne

 

Wednesday 4 September 2024

Adventure to the Red Centre, part 5

William Creek to Coober Pedy

Flying in to William Creek from Birdsville was another of those uniquely Australian experiences.  Taxiing off the airstrip to the disembarkation point required crossing the Oodnadatta Track, one of the significant roads in the area. I guess the pilot was used to watching out for utes (pickup trucks) and massive road trains!

William Creek is a quintessentially Aussie Outback place.  According to a board inside the hotel, current population is 12.  However, being located along the Oodnadatta Track, it's an important centre for the surrounding district.  The nearby Anna Creek Station is the largest cattle station in the world at nearly 24,000 sq km.  Mind-blowing statistics!  The Woomera Prohibited Area is also nearby, known for weapons testing and in particular, above-ground nuclear tests in the 1950's and '60's.

Distance board in the hotel

Arrivals and departure lounge, William Creek

William Creek Hotel

Pop-top caravanning, Outback style

Local humour

William Creek golf course, par 3 1st tee

A long way from help if you need it

Mrs J dodging rush hour traffic

Following a very pleasant lunch, it was time to head to Coober Pedy, the world's premier supplier of opals. The Oodnadatta Track was barren, as was the bordering Anna Creek Station.  Cattle were few and far between.

The first signs of approaching Coober Pedy were hard to misinterpret,with dirt spoil heaps everywhere from the mining.  It's understood that there are around 2 million individual mine shafts and it certainly pays to keep your eyes open.  The town sign features a blower truck, essential for helping with the extraction of mine tailings.

Mine tailings as far as the eye can see

The town icon

A working opal claim

The town has a population of around 1400 and with harsh desert summer temperatures, many live underground within their claims.  This ensures temperatures in the mid-20's C all year round. The hotel we stayed at had been cut inside a rock face although our room was fully underground.

Some of the underground hotel passageways

Our hotel bedroom - very dark with the lights out!

A tour of an old mine was organised which actually showed that miners could live in relative comfort.

Comfortable living at pleasant temperatures

Horizontal access tunnels

Opal seams fluorescing under UV light

Seeing some of the polished opals mounted and on display was a timely reminder that Jennie had very much wanted an opal bracelet so a hunt was on to find the perfect gift.  Here it is:

For the woman who (almost) has everything

What is it about Aussies and extreme golf courses?  There is an 18 hole course in the harshest of environments which has reciprocal rights with the Royal and Ancient at St Andrews!  There's something so very right about that arrangement.

1st tee, Coober Pedy golf course

Diesel-coated green (brown?) to keep the dust down

A view of some of the fairways

Apparently, night golf using glow balls and sticks is quite popular.  I'll bet it is, especially with those summer temperatures.

You might think that such a place is pretty God-forsaken but the opposite is true with a number of churches having been tunnelled into the rock to provide the perfect environment for reflection.  We visited both the Catholic and Serbian churches and both were works of art.  Here are some photos of the Serbian Church.

Tunnelled into the side of a hill, it was beautifully-appointed and the glass panels with interior lighting  made it look perfectly natural.

Utterly spectacular

The Sturt Desert Pea

Leaving for Uluru the next morning (yes, at dawn!), we still had time to visit another wilderness area close to Coober Pedy, the Kanku Breakaways Conservation area which was again, quite different from other nearby spots.  In one direction on the Moon Plain, there was nothing growing for as far as the eye could see yet there is apparently abundant life.  The Earth's curvature was quite apparent.

Everyone's idea of the Outback

In another direction, it looked like the world's supply of plastic wrap had been dumped on the surface with all the glitter from it.

Hectares of glitter

These are translucent sheets of gypsum and an example can be seen below with our guide Kym holding a sample.

Translucent gypsum sheets

The other well-known item which passes through the area is the 5600 km long Dog Fence, which is under constant maintenance.

The famous Dog Fence

The Breakaways area itself has amazingly varied topography will different minerals.  Here is a selection of photos.

White, red and brown hills

One heck of a colour pallette

A long way from anywhere

Next post:  Uluru and the Olgas