Polonnaruwa, Kandalama, Sigyria and Minneria
Polonnaruwa was created in the 12th century and whilst substantial building relics remain, much has still to be uncovered. There was an archaeological team hard at work during our visit.
Massive brickwork structures
Remains of ornate plasterwork over bricks
Also in the area was the Gal Viharaya rock temple. Huge Buddhas were carved from solid rock in the 12th century, the biggest being some 15 metres long. Incredible work considering the rudimentary tools in use. In the photos which follow, the various rock seams can be seen to run through both the surrounding rock and the statues.
Note the rock seams
We were booked in at the Heritance Kandalama on the shores of the man-made Lake Kandalama. This accommodation was designed by the previously mentioned late architect Geoffrey Bawa to blend in with the rocky cliff and escarpment it was built round. It was certainly an impressive structure but maybe avant garde architects don't offer the most practical solutions. (A personal and biased opinion of course)!
Heritance Kandalama (file photo)
According to the statistics, the hotel is approximately 1km from end to end. In the heat and humidity, we felt every metre trudging from the central amenities area to our room which took a good 10 minutes through walkways open to the surrounding countryside. Hard work when well fed and watered! It was also easy to get lost with elevators seemingly placed at random throughout the structure and at all sorts of odd angles. More than once, we ended up not knowing where the heck we were.
Despite the tongue in cheek tilt at the architecture and layout, the fine dining experience in a cave immediately behind the hotel was quite something. The multiple courses were divine, as were the wines, accompanied by a flautist sitting on a rock.
Waiting for the first course
A pretty substantial cave
The cave floor was completely natural with relatively uneven ground. The cave itself was connected via a narrow wooden walkway to the hotel with subdued lighting. I idly wondered whether any inattentive or inebriated guests had ever plunged into the darkness as I noted the firm grip which the dining area personnel had on guests arms as they transitioned the walkway back to the hotel.
The trip to Sigiriya Rock Fortress (Lion Rock) involved driving across a spillway of Lake Kandalama. Irrigation water was sluicing across the road in some quantity but I suppose it was perfectly safe. Certainly interesting though.
Water coming over the spillway
Lion Rock is some 200 metres taller than the surrounding countryside and takes some 1200 steps at a very steep angle to reach the top. As the temperature was in the mid-30's C with high humidity, we decided to chicken out of climbing to the top and explored the ancient gardens in the lower reaches instead.
Aerial view of Lion Rock
The afternoon activity was a game drive in Minneriya National Park. Stopped for lunch at a restaurant with the most beautiful architecture. The photo below shows the entrance. Everywhere we went, there were beautiful places to eat.
Stunning restaurant entrance
A delightful scene in the adjoining village - someone giving an elephant a scrub behind the ears!
A ride-in elephant wash
Driving to the game park, I managed to capture some unusual scenes. There was a field planted with tobacco, followed by leaves drying on racks. Apparently, it's principally for chewing with betel nut and lime by the older generation and carries some significant health risks.
Tobacco crop
Tobacco leaves drying in the sun
The next photo is scarcely believable and I wonder how the authorities would react in the western world. A case of being highly innovative! I initially thought that we had encountered roadworks but no, it was a local farmer drying and bagging his rice crop! The dark road surface in full sun is the perfect medium for drying the crop before bagging - absolutely brilliant!
Not a sight you see every day
During the game drive, we saw lots of birds, much the same as the previous park but we were privileged to see elephants with a mother and baby close up. They were unconcerned with our presence and continued to feed.
What a great sight
Before heading back to our accommodation, we had to make a small excursion to rescue one of the other 4x4's which had become bogged in some soft ground. With the aid of a winch, it popped out easily and it was back to the hotel for a well-earned beer.
....and out she pops
Part 4 to come....
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