Wheel alignment

Tuesday 15 November 2011

The Bay and Banjos Tour, day 2

Approximately 400km

Sunday morning dawned bright and clear.  I have that delicious stomach-churning anticipation of a day of fast riding in sparsely populated and largely wild territory.  A couple of the lads have stomach-churning due to overdoing it the previous evening and are looking forward to a big fried breakfast to settle things down (ewwww...).

Andy, praying for a hangover cure

Big John - makes the VStrom 1000 look like a toy!

We head off to the suburb of Taradale for gas and a pavement breakfast at a cafe.  Eggs Benedict for me and plenty of water as the weather is scorching hot.  Easy to get dehydrated on a long, hard ride in these conditions.  

 A lazy Sunday breakfast in the sun

 The next part of the route is deceptively called Gentle Annie.  The reason for its name isn't known to me, but it was probably named by an early settler with a perverse sense of humour!  Gentle it is not.  Approximately 150km of continuous bends through a bit of farmland but a fair percentage of it is through forests and native bush in really hilly country.  The road itself was only completely tar sealed earlier this year and there are big altitude changes as it dives down to valley floors and then over ridges in the Kaweka Mountain range. 

John leads off and sets a great pace as we climb away from the coast.  The road consists of continuous sweepers with a smooth, coarse chip surface, perfect for taking any chicken strips off a rear tyre - this is motorcycling Paradise!  Further up into the hills, the road surface is generally good but to maintain a decent pace in safety, good forward observation is critical to spot scatterings of gravel on the riding line and frost heaves in the high country.  It's hard to think that on such a beautiful day, this road is regularly closed because of snow in the colder weather but even now,  the temperature drop is quite pronounced at altitude.

Nearly 150 km of continuous twisties

 Kaweka Range high country - lonely out here

 We stop at a mountain river bridge to take some photos as the broom is in full flower and looks absolutely stunning.  There are big trout down below in the crystal clear waters.  After nearly an hour of riding, we've only seen a couple of vehicles and riding solo on this road with only patchy mobile phone coverage at best, having an accident or a breakdown becomes a serious matter; especially in marginal weather.

John, encouraging Andy to dive off the bridge and catch a trout!

 Crystal clear mountain river

Richard takes over the lead for the second half of Gentle Annie and the countryside slowly turns into high country farms.  The road is as twisty as ever and gravel patches diminish but everyone is still keeping a wary eye open for them.  Reaching State Highway 1 and up to Waiouru for gas, everyone thinks it's one of the best biking roads in the north island, but requires huge concentration if it's going to be traversed at pace.

Tongariro National Park active volcanoes taken from Waiouru

It's quite cool here in the high country and we head north west towards Taumaranui with John picking up the lead.  Everyone is on full alert as the Highway Patrol are pretty keen in this area and sure enough, the radar detector goes off and there's a cop a long way up the road booking a car driver.  We stop shortly afterwards near National Park village for some photos of the volcanoes.  Cloud cover is fairly well down, but that makes for a moody atmosphere.

Arty-farty shot of the volcanoes with red tussock grass
and an old cart in the foreground

A 3 metre high Kiwi made from gnarled branches - terrific!

We all refuel at Taumaranui and stop for a bit of rehydration.  We say our goodbyes to Richard who has to return home for work tomorrow which is a real shame as he's great company and a darned good rider too.  The next leg of the journey down the Lost World Highway needs full tanks as no fuel is available for the best part of 150 km.  This stretch is rather different from Gentle Annie.  The same tight bends but the road surface is more uneven, the road itself is at the bottom of a gorge and pretty narrow after the first 10km or so.

I lead off and we're immediately reminded that it's a road to be respected by the sign below.  There used to be another sign saying "Public Road - This Is Not A Race Track"  but it seems to have disappeared - more on that later.

A sobering reminder to take care

About an hour away from our stop for the night, it gets gloomy and light rain starts to fall.  The gorge walls are clad in bush and tree ferns and it's eerily beautiful.

Andy singing in the rain

Remains of trees swept downstream during heavy rain
Rivers rise fast in hill country

Wild, steep country
We travel along in light rain which has turned the 10-odd km section of unsealed road into brown slush.  All but one of the bikes are on sport touring tyres but there are no anxious moments.  The bikes are totally covered in mud and look like they've had a day at the moto-X track!  We're soon back onto tar seal and a bit further on, we stop at the Moki Tunnel which was built in the 1930's.  An impressive bit of engineering.

The narrow Moki tunnel

At least you can see daylight!

A few minutes later, we're rolling into the tiny, isolated settlement of Whangamomona and our stop for the night at the iconic Whangamomona Hotel, having seen precisely 2 other vehicles down the whole length of the highway.  Not a place to run into trouble.  The Hotel is a mecca for bikers, car enthusiasts and intrepid travellers and maintains its old world charm.  The current owners, Penny and Geoff Taylor are bike enthusiasts and currently own a brand new Super Tenere.  Every year, they hold a number of special events including Republic Day with all sorts of events including elections.  From memory, the last elected President of the Republic was a goat - I love it!!!!

The iconic Whangamomona Hotel

After being welcomed and shown our rooms, we have a well-earned locally crafted beer or two.  Nearly 400 km of continuous twisties brings on a real thirst, not to mention being half-stuffed!  We chat with a colourful local who gives us some interesting history of the people in the area and we tactfully don't ask about banjo ownership.  The local has his well-used utility vehicle (called a ute in NZ and Australia) parked outside.  It's clearly done stirling service for a couple of decades or so and is a perfect photographic subject in the remote surroundings.

A true country vehicle

Another patron rocks up on a gorgeous KTM 690 motard.  I've never seen one up close before and the engineering is superb.  Must be the perfect bike for a blast on these twisty roads. The owner is a really nice guy and as we chat, it turns out that he's the cousin of an old workmate and also worked for my old boss in another life.  The thing about NZ and it's 4.5 million population is that virtually everyone knows someone in common!

Superb KTM 690

Arty-farty shot in KTM mirror

After another beer or two and a superb meal, the eyelids are beginning to droop and 4 keen bikers are tucked up and sound asleep by 10pm, dreaming of the next day!

Day 3 soon......


  1. "Lost world highway" diffinitly a road to be respected, just not one of those roads you can really have a fang on. Still what it lacks in one area it makes up for with great scenery and and just plain out right interest to ride. I have never stayed at the pub there but hope to soon.

    Amazing that you only covered 400kms, our american friends must think we are wimps with only that sort of mileage, yet that was a very demanding 400 kms, many riders from overseas would struggle to understand just how much so.

    Love it

  2. High motorbike crash route. Sounds like an ominous warning.

    Another great day of riding. The sunshine you had in the morning looks so nice.

    I especially liked the photos with the cart wheel and the wood kiwi.

    And speaking of Gentle Annie, how is Little Orphan Annie? I bet she is getting to be a big kitty.

  3. Roger:
    You're spot on! We maintained a reasonable pace but kept it really smooth. The IAM training was a godsend, honestly. Absolutely, 400km of virtually continuous blind corners taken at a fair lick is physically and mentally demanding, but what a blast!!!

    It certainly is - there have been several fatalities in recent times. It's one of the most technically demanding roads I've ever ridden.

    Thanks re: the photos, It was a really nice find.

    Little Orphan Annie is indeed growing thanks,is stunningly beautiful, has no fear of our alpha male Thomas and has someone in our household twisted round her little paw... cough, cough!

  4. Andrew - some of my favourite roads too now! Wish I had your VStrom on The Forgotten Highway - John's V made it look oh so easy!

  5. Geoff

    "....continuous blind corners taken at a fair lick.."

    I presume then that you drove at such a speed that you could always stop in the distance you could see ahead as per the IAM book? Assuming then 20kmh is a safe speed that route would have taken you say 20 hours?

    Best wishes from blue skied Britain, N

  6. Nikos:

    I think your comment is known as "poking the Devil with a stick, then running away", haha!

    Actually, as I mentioned, the IAM training was a fantastic aid but I must say hand on heart our positioning gave us a "fighting" chance of stopping in the distance we could see. We did manage to slow ok for two cattle which were grazing on the verge just round a bend so we must have been doing something right. No doubt Dylan will be along any minute with his IAM Observer's hat on and say that he never indulges in a fast fang ;-).

    I'm not rising to the bait about speed vs. time!

  7. Geoff that is a ride out to behold...total gorgeous. Problem for me would be trying to watch where the road goes with such gob smacking scenery!
    Best thing about hats Geoff you can swap them to suit.............
    You can't be a hooligan over 50..... can you????

  8. Def sounds like what we would describe as a 'spirited ride out'..............

  9. Awesome stuff once again Geoff...

    After reading about Day 1 this morning I grabbed my gear at lunch time with destination in mind and just rode till i smiled......(actually the smile comes when I put on my gear before I even start the bike!!!)

    Loved the photos once again....can't wait for Day 3!!


  10. Geoff

    haha, taken in good spirit I see!


  11. Dylan:
    You have it in one.... merely trrying out higher speed roadcraft on a sparsely inhabited road. And totally agree about being ahem...mature - we don't do stupid stuff, do we? Your comment about wearing different hats would be interpreted by Nikos of double standards. Something my kids accuse me of all the time, i'm delighted to say :-).

    Of course, friends are allowed to be more cutting than enemies :-). Being English (sort of), I realise that you have higher ethics than an upside-down colonial!

  12. Anthony:
    Well done and good for you mate! Hope you have a plan for tomorrow a 500 km trip to your favourite cafe perhaps?

  13. Dear Mr James, when I come to New Zealand, will you fix it for me to ride some roads like that with you? Fantastic! I love most of it, but the tunnel looked great - well, being an engineer, it would I guess. @Dylan - Spirited Ride Out. I like that!

  14. A great report Geoff, I was in the mood for reading about motorcycle touring and you've hit the nail on the head!

    I've looked at buying or renting a satellite phone for use on some of our remote location rides where there's no cell phone service or farm houses near. They are still just a tad too pricey here to justify buying one at present, but I certainly intend to in the future as they get more compact and affordable.

    Radar detectors will just about see us locked up!!

    Cheers Jules.

  15. Geoff:

    that looks like a delightful road, and I already have the 'Strom. It just eats up rough roads. I am sure it can travel at 20 kmh, slow enough to enjoy the scenery and stop for a few snaps. I don't like that motorcycle crash sign advisory, it was like a kind of forshadowing . . . and I would go just for the Eggs Benedicts at that Pavement Cafe

    Riding the Wet Coast

  16. Bob:
    You have the perfect bike for most of NZ's roads! If I was travelling on any other occasion, I'd be stopping more often but with my trusted mates, it's the opportunity to ride some of the more challenging roads at a higher, but not risky pace.

    I thought of you when I saw that Eggs Benedict was on the menu!

  17. Gary:
    You are guaranteed a warm welcome and it will be a privelege to show you our best riding roads. We can cruise or be "spirited" - entirely your choice!

    Thanks and glad you liked it! Yeah, a nice Iridium phone would be cool! Radar detectors are legal in NZ but if you get pulled and the police see it, I wouldn't be expecting too much in the way of favours :-)

  18. What a treasure of great roads - Beautiful scenery!
    The Whangamomona Hotel looks like a fun place to stay, with lots of character. :)

  19. Cheers Kari!
    The owner of the hotel is a bit like Basil Fawlty if you ever saw the John Cleese classic series. Don't thing that he would thank me for saying so though, hehe!


Hello! I love to hear your feedback as it often leads to other things. However, if your comments are blatant advertising, then they won't get published.